The San Fernando Cooperative, located in the remote town of Amaybamba, has become one of our most cherished sourcing partnerships. Reaching the community requires a twelve hour journey from Cusco, crossing rugged terrain into one of the highest coffee growing regions in Peru. Each year, we return to San Fernando to taste the micro lots produced by its members, searching for coffees that express the depth and clarity of this landscape. Time and again, Mario Villano’s selections rise to the top, capturing the unique character of Amaybamba’s microclimate.
Last year, we had the privilege of visiting Mario at his farm in the small hamlet of Inispata, just east of Amaybamba on the slopes of Pacaybamba. The path to his farm winds through valleys shaped by natural springs and framed by the towering Andes. These mountain springs provide essential moisture for Mario’s coffee trees in an otherwise dry climate. Nearby, a large preserve of native forest creates shade, cooler temperatures, and a healthy ecosystem that supports his crops.
Mario grew up in a farming household, raising coffee alongside vegetables and fruit. While he continues this tradition, his dedication has allowed his children to pursue higher education in nearby cities. In addition to coffee, Mario also grows avocados, though they bring very modest prices at the local market.
Over the years, Mario has refined his processing methods. He built raised drying beds so his coffee can dry slowly and evenly, and he adopted an extended fermentation approach, waiting two days before depulping the cherries. This allows him to process larger volumes while maintaining quality. His methods remain simple, but the results are clear in the cup. The coffees are consistently sweet, balanced, and deeply reflective of their place.
