Kenya Gatura AA

Altitude: 1700-1800 meters

Varietals: SL28, SL34

Process:
Cherries are sorted by hand, dry fermented for 24 hours, washed softly and then moved into a secondary 20 hour fermentation, followed by a 16 hour soak and 15 days of drying on raised beds. .

Harvest: November - January 2026

Region: Nyeri County

The Retro 1984 Project is the culmination of years of collaboration between Peter Mbature, Tim Hill, and a group of coffee roasters committed to strengthening quality, traceability, and long-term viability for Kenyan coffee farmers.

In 1984, the Kenyan government released new hybrid varieties such as Ruiru 11 and, later, Batian. These varieties offered important agronomic advantages, including improved disease resistance and productivity, but their widespread adoption gradually transformed the flavor profile of Kenyan coffee. Over time, many coffee professionals began searching for the vivid acidity, dense sweetness, and layered fruit character that had once defined the country's most celebrated coffees.

The Retro 1984 Project seeks to recover and preserve these qualities through a simple but intentional approach. Participating farmers and washing stations separate traditional SL28 and SL34 varieties from newer hybrids, return to processing methods that were once commonplace in Kenya, and engage in direct relationships with roasters that provide meaningful feedback, early purchasing commitments, and premiums that exceed local market levels.

The Gatura Washing Station is one of the participants in this project. This selection consists exclusively of SL28 and SL34, the varieties that form the genetic foundation of many of Kenya's most iconic coffees. Under Peter's guidance, the coffee undergoes a traditional double fermentation process. Following depulping, the coffee ferments for approximately twenty hours without water before receiving a gentle rinse and an additional twenty hours of wet fermentation. The coffee is then fully washed and dried on raised beds.

The combination of traditional varieties and tuned processing produces a cup profile that recalls an earlier era of Kenyan coffee: acidity that is vibrant yet refined, fruit character that is juicy and transparent, and a texture that is rich, layered, and deeply satisfying.

In Kenya, AA refers to bean size, specifically the largest screen size used in grading. Kenyan coffee is typically classified into a few main grades:

• AA — the largest beans, often prized for their syrupy texture and intensity in the cup.
• AB — mid-sized beans, still capable of excellent quality.
• PB (Peaberry) — naturally occurring single beans, often showing concentrated acidity and sweetness.
• C — smaller seeds, though still capable of capturing distinctive profiles.

While quality is not determined solely by size, exceptional coffees can be found across all grades. AA lots remain highly sought after by buyers for their depth, sweetness, and structure.

Kenya is a landscape of immense possibility and persistent challenge. Few coffee-producing countries so clearly reflect the legacy of colonialism and the ongoing concentration of power within global commodity markets. Despite producing some of the world's most celebrated and recognizable coffees, the majority of Kenyan farmers continue to receive only a small share of the value created by their work. Decades of policy decisions, market consolidation, and complex supply chains have often left producers disconnected from the premiums their coffees command abroad. 

To stand in solidarity with coffee farmers is to build supply chains that recognize and value their labor, returning more of the value they create back to the communities that produce coffee. For this reason, Wonderstate Coffee partners with Peter Mbature, a coffee farmer, exporter, and longtime friend, to identify exceptional Kenyan coffees while creating more direct pathways for value to reach producers. Together, we work to source coffees that not only express the remarkable character of Kenya, but also support a more equitable and transparent coffee trade.

Kamavindi, both as a farm and now an exporting company, represents the realization of a multigenerational dream: building a more transparent and equitable coffee trade. At the heart of that vision is a simple belief that farmers deserve meaningful feedback, fair compensation, access to knowledge, and direct relationships with the people who ultimately purchase their coffee. 

This year, we visited Peter Mbature and the Kamavindi team to cup and select remarkable coffees from across Kenya. These coffees are the fruits of Peter's longstanding relationships with farmers, washing stations, and cooperatives, relationships built on trust, shared learning, and a commitment to creating greater value for producers. Throughout 2026, Wonderstate will be releasing a handful of coffees that we believe best reflect the hopeful future of Kenyan coffee, thanks to the vision and passion of Peter Mbature. 

Gatura is a washing station in Nyeri, consisting of 200 farmers from throughout the community. Formerly a part of a larger cooperative society, Gatura broke off to seek better opportunities for direct sales and management of marketing and quality. Peter began working with Gatura in 2024, after having recognized the potential to build quality systems with the cooperative. The result is a coffee we believe captures what we love about AA Selections: big fruit, big texture, big acidity. 

Kenyan coffees are unmistakable. Their vibrant acidity, savory complexity, and dense-juicy texture create a profile unlike coffee from anywhere else in the world. Each year, we return to Kenya in search of coffees that capture these qualities at their best, and thanks to Peter Mbature and the entire Kamavindi team, 2026 features Wonderstate’s most robust lineup of Kenyan coffees yet. 

This selection from Gatura Washing Station is a beautiful expression of the region's character. We find the tart intensity of blackberry, the juicy sweetness of ripe nectarine, and a finish of bright, refreshing clementine.